How the Queen became a style icon
从舞会礼服到巴伯尔（英国奢侈品牌，是英国皇家御用风衣品牌），为什么女王陛下不断发展的着装品味是皇家形象塑造的大师班（大师级作品）。黛西·伍德沃德（Daisy Woodward）回顾了一段与众不同的时尚之旅。
From ballgowns to Barbours, why Her Majesty’s evolving dress sense is a masterclass in royal image making. Daisy Woodward looks back at a fashion journey like no other.
在她登基的70年里，女王见证了巨大的社会变革，不可思议的科技突破，以及——不可避免地——无数时尚潮流的出现、衰落和重新出现。
In her 70 years on the throne, the Queen has witnessed huge social change, previously unthinkable scientific and technological breakthroughs, and – inevitably – the emergence, decline and re-emergence of countless fashion trends.
其中一些是她帮助激发了灵感：可以说，女王陛下在霓虹绿色（荧光绿）的先锋地位上打败了Billie Eilish（碧梨，美国歌手，喜爱荧光绿，最出众的形象是荧光绿的发色），推广了Gucci的马衔扣乐福鞋，并为英国乡村时尚树立了终极标准。
Some of these she has helped spark: it could be argued that Her Majesty pipped Billie Eilish to the post in the pioneering of neon green, popularised the Gucci horse-bit loafer, and set the ultimate standard for British countryside chic.
其他的，比如克里斯蒂安·迪奥（Christian Dior）倡导的1950年代精致的新面貌，或1970年代的波普风，她全心全意地接受。但是，在大多数情况下，她已经在许多顾问，造型师和设计师的帮助下，塑造了自己的独特视觉身份。
Others, like the refined New Look of the 1950s championed by Christian Dior or the bold prints of the 1970s, she has wholeheartedly embraced. But, for the most part, she has carved out her own, singular visual identity, aided by a host of advisors, stylists and designers.
如今，女王的着装以单色和同色系的帽子为典型搭配的基础，配饰包括丝巾、珍珠和富尔顿雨伞，手套、胸针和她心爱的方形手袋。
Today, monochromatic co-ords and matching hats form the basis of the Queen’s quintessential ensembles, with accessories spanning silk scarves, pearls and Fulton umbrellas, through gloves, brooches and her beloved boxy handbags.
她的前私人秘书罗宾·詹夫林（Robin Janvrin）在接受BBC文化频道采访时表示，“我一直被女王非常实用的穿着方式所打动。她穿着得体而突出，让人们可以看到她 – 鲜艳的颜色和帽子，手套很有用，可以在外出时随时接住人们递给她的各种东西。
Robin Janvrin, her former Private Secretary, tells BBC Culture, “I have always been struck by the Queen’s very practical approach to what she wears. She dresses to stand out so that people can see her – bright colours and a hat, with gloves useful when being handed all sorts of things on walkabouts.”
The tuxedo-lapel detail on this gown by Norman Hartnell, worn by the Queen in 1952, was daring for the time
上图：由诺曼·哈特内尔（Norman Hartnell）设计的，女王于1952年穿的这件礼服上的燕尾服翻领细节在当时是大胆的（图片来源：Getty Images）
20 世纪 50 年代 1950s
20世纪50年代是女王最关注潮流的十年。作为一名25岁的新晋君主，在她的首席设计师Norman Hartnell和Hardy Amies的帮助下，她接受了战后时代的风格，推动了英国时尚的发展并在此过程中获得了自己的时尚偶像地位。“在世界主要由男性主宰的时代，她登上了全球舞台，看到她保持着耀眼的女性气质真是赏心悦目，” Holmes说。
The 1950s was the Queen’s most trend-centric decade. As a 25-year-old, newly crowned monarch, she embraced the glamour of the post-war era, promoting British fashion and garnering her own style-icon status along the way, with help from her principal couturiers Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. “She took to the global stage at a time when the world was largely run by men, and to see her hold on to her razzle-dazzle femininity was just delightful,” says Holmes.
就在登基几个月后，伊丽莎白二世身着这件诺曼·哈特内尔的黑白礼服，搭配长长的白手套和精致的头饰，出席了莱斯特广场帝国剧院的一个特别的电影放映会，引起了特别的轰动。“
Just months after ascending the throne, Elizabeth II wore this sweeping black-and-white Norman Hartnell gown, paired with long white gloves and a dainty tiara, to a special film screening at Leicester Square’s Empire Theatre, causing a particular stir. “
乍一看，这是一件漂亮，非常传统的舞会礼服，这是你在大型晚会上所期望的，”新出版的《女王：70年的雄伟风格》一书的作者Bethan Holt接受BBC文化频道采访时表示，“但后来你注意到它的男装细节- 一个燕尾服翻领在顶部。哈特内尔和女王表明他们不怕发表时尚宣言。第二天，所谓的“喜鹊礼服”成为头条新闻，催生了大量复制和DIY图案。
At first glance, it’s a beautiful, very traditional ball gown, which is what you’d expect at a big gala performance,” Bethan Holt, author of newly published book The Queen: 70 Years of Majestic Style, tells BBC Culture. “But then you notice its menswear detailing – a tuxedo-lapel finish at the top. Hartnell and the Queen are showing they’re not afraid to make a fashion statement.” The next day the so-called “Magpie dress” was headline news, spawning multiple copies and DIY patterns.
In 1961 the monarch hosted the Kennedys at Buckingham Palace wearing a pale-blue tulle gown
上图：1961年，这位君主穿着淡蓝色的薄纱礼服在白金汉宫接待了肯尼迪一家——这次会面被改编成了电视剧《王冠》（图片来源：Getty Images）
20世纪 60 年代 1960s
20世纪60年代初，女王保持着对活力的喜好。1961年，当她在白金汉宫接待肯尼迪一家时，女王穿着一件淡蓝色的晚礼服，褶边薄纱 – 这是哈特内尔的标志 – 而第一夫人则选择了一件时髦的柱形连衣裙，更加时尚。
The early 1960s saw the Queen retain her penchant for pizzazz. When, in 1961, she hosted the Kennedys at Buckingham Palace, HM donned a pale blue evening gown in frilly tulle – a Hartnell trademark – while the First Lady opted for a sleek column dress that was far more á la mode.
这次会面被改编成了剧作《王冠》，利用了杰奎琳对女王的“老式”搭配印象不深的谣言（据闻，杰奎琳曾评价英女王的衣着平庸没有品味）。
The encounter was dramatised in The Crown, which played on the rumours that Jackie had been less than impressed by the Queen’s “old-fashioned”
然而，Holmes认为，这两位女性的着装都表明了她们是谁，她们代表着什么- – 这对女王来说是不可动摇的重要问题，尤其是对于具有里程碑意义的事件。“如果她坚持她所知道的，她永远不会出错，而她非常熟悉那种经典的轮廓”霍尔特说。
ensemble. Holmes, however, argues that both women’s attire spoke to who they were and what they represented – a matter of unwavering importance to the Queen, especially for landmark events. “She can never go wrong if she sticks to what she knows and that classic silhouette is very familiar to her,” says Holt.
事实上，随着以自由奔放著称的这十年的发展，女王带来了迷你裙，喇叭裤，扎染等，她重新审视了自己作为潮流引领者的角色，而不是开始为如今的标志性风格奠定基础。纯色系，修身裙以及一直保持在膝盖或膝盖以下的裙子的时代正式开始了。
Indeed, as the famously free-spirited decade progressed, bringing with it miniskirts, bell-bottoms, tie-dye et al, the monarch reappraised her role as trend-setter, instead setting out to establish the foundations of her now-hallmark style. The era of block colours, slim silhouettes and skirts that have remained steadfastly on or below the knee, had officially begun.
In a yellow polkadot dress by Hardy Amies with matching turban on a 1975 visit to Mexico (Credit: Getty Images)
上图：在1975年访问墨西哥时，女王陛下身着哈迪·艾米斯（Hardy Amies）设计的的黄色波尔卡多特连衣裙和配套的头巾，引领了十年的华丽风格（图片来源：Getty Images）
20世纪 70 年代 1970s
女王是世界上旅行最多的君主，在她统治期间访问了117个不同的国家。她的每次皇室访问都伴随着一个精心策划的定制衣橱，反映了“她所处国家的态度或动植物标志（如国花，国鸟，国宝等等），无论是通过颜色，风格，图案还是珠宝，”（小编注：英国皇室文化，是通过衣饰来对所在国的文化进行致敬）
The Queen is the world’s best-travelled monarch, having visited 117 different countries during her reign. Each of her royal visits has been accompanied by a scrupulously planned, bespoke wardrobe reflecting “the attitudes, or flora and fauna, of the country she’s in, whether through colour, style, pattern, or jewellery,”
《伊丽莎白启示录》的作者露辛达霍克斯利告诉BBC文化频道。“这是她成为伟大的外交官的原因之一。”Holmes对此表示赞同：“她亲切的姿态不言不语地表达了一切，并且影响了当今许多女政治家的穿着方式。
Lucinda Hawksley, the author of Elizabeth Revealed, tells BBC Culture. “It’s one of the things that makes her such a great diplomat.” Holmes agrees: “Her gracious gestures say everything without having to say anything at all, and have influenced the way a lot of female politicians dress today.”
在这里，女王在1975年对墨西哥进行国事访问期间，穿着哈迪·艾米斯（Hardy Amies）设计的阳光明媚的黄色波尔卡多特连衣裙，搭配弗雷德里克·福克斯（Frederick Fox）设计的头巾。黄色传统上代表着复兴和希望，在玛雅文化中也象征着玉米，而玉米是重要的生命之源。
Here, the Queen is seen in a sunny yellow polkadot dress by Hardy Amies, and matching turban by Frederick Fox, during a state visit to Mexico in 1975. Traditionally representative of renewal and hope, yellow also symbolises maize, a vital life source, in Mayan culture.
大胆的颜色和图案选择彰显了女王自己对 20 世纪 70 年代潮流的鲜明的自我表达，这体现在她在整个十年中引人注目的日装和晚装上。与此同时，妙想天开的头饰正在成为皇室的主要服饰。“当女王步入中年时，她在自己的角色中大步前进，”Holmes指出。“她意识到有必要让自己的出现保持有趣，有趣的帽子可以拍出梦幻般的照片，尤其是在特写镜头中。”
The bold choice of colour and pattern demonstrates the Queen’s own take on the 1970s trend for striking self-expression, which manifested itself in her eye-catching day and evening wear throughout the decade. Meanwhile, whimsical headwear was becoming a key royal staple. “The Queen reached a moment in middle-age when she hit her stride with her role,” notes Holmes. “She recognised the need to keep her presence interesting, and interesting hats make for fantastic photographs, particularly in close-ups.”
多年来，君主的乡村时尚品牌一直被广泛效仿，以至于它现在拥有近乎媚俗的吸引力。
The monarch’s brand of rural chic has been so widely emulated over the years that it now boasts an almost kitsch appeal
The Queen’s enduring off-duty look, shown at the 1988 Royal Windsor Horse Show, has been much copied by fashionistas
上图：女王经久不衰的下班（悠闲）造型，在1988年皇家温莎马展上展现，被时尚达人大量复制（图片来源：Getty Images）
20世纪 80年代 1980s
这张照片拍摄于 1988 年的皇家温莎马展上，这张照片中女王穿着她经久不衰的、永恒的下班制服（悠闲套装）——这里没有 80 年代的泡芙袖。这是由“花呢裙，夹克和马裤，这些她自己制作的经典英国乡村服饰来诠释她的魅力，”霍尔特解释说，“这表明她是一个热爱马和户外活动的女人。”这样的装扮通常会搭配一件巴伯尔夹克和一条华丽的丝质头巾，通常是爱马仕的马纹图案， Holmes说“这显示了她的个性并在某种程度上使她更加平易近人”。
Taken at The Royal Windsor Horse Show in 1988, this image finds the Queen in her enduring and timeless off-duty uniform – no 80s puff-sleeves here. This is defined by “the tweed skirts and jackets, the jodhpurs, these classic British country items she has made her own,” explains Holt, “and that show her as a woman who loves horses and the outdoors.” Such outfits will often be topped by a Barbour jacket and an exuberantly patterned silk headscarf, frequently an equine print by Hermes, that Holmes says “shows her personality and somehow makes her more approachable”.
多年来，女王的乡村时尚品牌一直被广泛模仿，以至于它现在拥有近乎媚俗的吸引力。古驰2017年春夏女装秀或许是最好的代表，该秀在威斯敏斯特教堂举行，亚历山德罗·米歇尔（Alessandro Michele）让模特儿穿着华丽的头巾和色彩缤纷的格子裙，带上运动箱包和穿上修饰过的乐福鞋，向女王的休闲造型致敬。
The monarch’s brand of rural chic has been so widely emulated over the years that it now boasts an almost kitsch appeal. This is perhaps best epitomised by Gucci’s spring/ summer 2017 women’s show, which took place in Westminster Abbey and saw Alessandro Michele deck his models in gaudy headscarves and colourful tartan skirts, and sporting box handbags and embellished loafers in tribute to HM’s downtime look.
在其他地方，许多富裕的户外爱好者 早已采用了这种造型模式，尽管她们的风格更为低调。霍克斯利说：“我认为这让女王匿名了，因为许多人都穿得像她，戴着头巾等等，所以她看起来就像马术表演上的任何年长女人一样，”
Elsewhere, legions of well-to-do outdoorsy types have long adopted this mode of styling, albeit in a more muted manner. “I think it gives the Queen anonymity because so many others dress like her, with the headscarf and so on, so she just looks like any older woman at a horse show,” says Hawksley.
The sequinned “Harlequin dress” was worn at the Royal Variety Performance– it was perfect for the occasion
上图：亮片的“小丑连衣裙”在1999年的皇家综艺表演中穿着——这是一个实验性的选择，非常适合这个场合（图片来源：Getty Images）
20世纪 90 年代 1990s
1990年代对温莎家族来说是一个糟糕的开端，女王宣布1992年是“可怕的一年”，因为皇室婚姻破裂和温莎城堡发生了毁灭性的大火。随着查尔斯王子和戴安娜的婚姻在公开解体，以及戴安娜于1997年去世，情况变得更糟。但是，无论时代多么动荡，女王都可以依靠它来履行她的职责 – 偶尔投掷时尚曲线球来加分（即以出其不意的时尚装扮来获得加分）。
The 1990s got off to a bad start for the Windsors, with the Queen proclaiming 1992 an “annus horribilis” on account of royal marriage breakdowns and a devastating fire at Windsor Castle. Things only got worse with the very public unravelling of Prince Charles and Diana’s marriage, and Diana’s death in 1997. But however turbulent the times, the Queen can be relied upon to show up to perform her duties – throwing in the occasional fashion curve ball for good measure.
这个造型是她有史以来最大胆的晚间搭配之一，于1999年在伯明翰的皇家综艺表演中穿着。由Karl-Ludwig Rehse制作，绰号“小丑连衣裙”，它包括一个亮片上衣，由多色钻石组成，下身是金色的V形条纹裙子。“这是女王为一项活动全力以赴的一个很好的例子，”霍尔特说。“当皇室成员如此打扮时，这表明他们对即将出席的场合有多尊重。他们意识到自己的出席是当晚的关键。同样，它展示了女王愿意继续进行尝试，在这种情况下是相当疯狂的。
This look marks one of her most daring evening ensembles of all time, worn to the Royal Variety Performance in Birmingham in 1999. Made by Karl-Ludwig Rehse, and nicknamed the “Harlequin dress”, it comprises a sequinned bodice, made up of multicoloured diamonds, atop a gold, V-striped skirt. “This is a great example of the Queen going all-out for an event,” says Holt. “When royals dress up in this way, it shows how much they respect the occasion they’re going to. They realise their attendance is the crux of the evening.” Equally, it reveals the Queen’s continued willingness to experiment, rather wildly in this instance.
A classic tweed coat with a festive red trim was the outfit for a Christmas Day church service at Sandringham
上图：一件经典的花呢外套，带有节日的红色装饰，是桑德灵厄姆圣诞节教堂礼拜的服装——手袋是劳纳的作品。
20 世纪末 2000s
从不羞于表达节日的喜悦，女王穿着这件冬青浆果红边花呢外套和匹配的帽子参加2008年在桑德灵厄姆举行的圣诞节教堂服务。
Never one to shy from a festive statement, the Queen sported this holly-berry-red-edged tweed coat and matching hat to the Christmas Day church service at Sandringham in 2008.
这是女王标志性美学的象征- 由她的私人造型师Angela Kelly为她的晚年精心搭配，她于2002年接任该职位 – 也表明了她对她最喜欢的英国配饰设计师的坚定忠诚。在她的统治期间，她一直携带Launer手袋（“该品牌的总监Gerald Bodmer说，漆皮款式，白天用黑色，白色或米色的，晚上用金色或银色的”），以及相同风格的搭扣粗跟鞋，不是由Gucci制造，而是由Anello&Davide制造。
It is a look emblematic of the Queen’s signature aesthetic – fine-tuned for her later years by her personal stylist Angela Kelly, who took up the role in 2002 – and also demonstrates her unwavering loyalty to her favourite British accessory designers. Throughout her reign, she has carried Launer handbags (“patent leather [styles] in black or white or beige for day use, and gold or silver for evening,” as the brand’s director Gerald Bodmer has said), and the same style of buckled block-heeled shoe, made not by Gucci but by Anello & Davide.
所有这些不仅仅是简单的喜好问题。霍尔特说：“自50年代末以来，女王利用时尚的巧妙之处在于，它代表着王室家族，成为这个疯狂的不断变化的世界的锚点（定位）。
All this is of course about more than simple preference. “What’s been very clever about how the Queen has used fashion since the late 50s is that it has come to represent the Royal Family as an anchor in a crazy, ever-changing world,” says Holt.
At her official 90th birthday celebration, the Queen offered a colour blocking masterclass – in dazzling neon green
上图：在2016年她正式的90岁生日庆典上，女王展示了一套大师级的色彩套装——耀眼的霓虹绿（图片来源：Getty Images）
21 世纪初 2010s
女王迎来了她90岁的新开始，她穿着一件由皇室最爱的斯图尔特·帕文（Stewart Parvin）制作的霓虹绿羊毛绉纱和丝绸两件套，以及雷切尔·特雷弗·摩根（Rachel Trevor-Morgan）设计的与之相衬的帽子，再一次证明了自己，她是色彩女王，没有彩虹光谱的颜色是她不能驾驭的。
The Queen welcomed the dawn of her nonagenarian years in a neon-green two-piece in wool crepe and silk, made by royal favourite Stewart Parvin, and a complementary hat by Rachel Trevor-Morgan proving herself, once again, the reigning queen of colour blocking, with no shade of the rainbow’s spectrum seemingly off limits.
“这是一个灿烂的表情，就像在说，’是的，我可能已经90岁了，但我仍然是我的一家之主，仍然是世界几十年来一直认识和喜爱的女王，我很快就会哪儿也去不了了，”霍尔特说。
“This was a brilliant look that said, ‘Yes, I might be 90 but I’m still the head of my family, still the Queen the world has known and loved for decades, and I’m going nowhere soon,” says Holt.
“有趣的是，女王在90多岁的时候真的很喜欢穿石灰绿：它已经成为她穿得最多的颜色之一。我认为她代表了新一代的老年女性，以及她们在社会中的形象。长期以来，对八九十岁的女性的看法是“为什么要担心这个年龄的衣服？”但她在过去十年里真的很耀眼。Holmes对此表示赞同：“作为一名公众人物，要既令人期待又令人兴奋，这是一件很难做到的事情，但女王做得如此令人钦佩。”
“And funnily enough, the Queen has really embraced wearing lime green in her 90s: it’s become one of her most-worn colours. I think she represents a new generation of older women and how they’re seen in society. For so long the narrative around women in their 80s and 90s was ‘why worry about clothes at this age?’ But she has really shone in the past decade.” Holmes agrees: “It is such a hard thing to do as a public figure, to be both expected and exciting, but the Queen does it so admirably.”
A delicate floral print was the perfect choice for a visit to Cornwall’s Eden Project in 2021 during the G7 Summit
上图：精致的花卉印花是2021年G7峰会期间参观康沃尔郡伊甸园项目的完美选择（图片来源：Getty Images）
21 世纪 20 年代 2020s
21世纪20年代，女王陛下一如既往地打扮得令人振奋。在去年的G7峰会期间，在康沃尔郡美丽的“全球花园”伊甸园项目（The Eden Project）举行的一次慈善活动中，她选择了安吉拉·凯利（Angela Kelly）设计的精致花卉印花连衣裙，搭配博茨瓦纳总统2007年赠送给她的博茨瓦纳高粱胸针，向大自然致敬。
The 2020s finds Her Majesty dressing as upliftingly as ever. At a charity event during last year’s G7 summit, which took place at The Eden Project, Cornwall’s beautiful “global garden”, she tipped her hat to nature in her choice of a delicate floral-print dress by Angela Kelly, paired with the Botswana Sorghum Brooch presented to her by the President of Botswana in 2007.
霍尔特指出：“女王不是那种可以在大型演讲中站出来发表意见的人，她也不想这样做，但她总是用衣服和珠宝来传递一点信息。” 她补充说,“我认为在社交媒体时代，每个人都对此感到非常兴奋，”并引用了君主在2017年向议会戴的欧盟国旗帽，此举引发了人们对她可能是“留欧派”的猜测。霍尔特继续说道,这些细节“以一种没有争议的方式强调了她的感受”。
“The Queen is not someone who can come out and give her opinion in big speeches, and nor would she like to, but she always uses clothes and jewellery to send a little message,” notes Holt. “I think in the era of social media everyone’s become quite excited about it,” she adds, referencing the EU-flag-evoking hat the monarch wore to parliament in 2017 in a move that sparked speculation of her possible status as a “remainer”. Such details “underline her feelings in a non-controversial way,” Holt continues.
事实上，正如Holmes敏锐地指出的那样，“从25岁到现在，女王的穿着从未被认为是不合适的。她让这件事看起来比实际更容易，但70年来要做到从未出错,所付出的工作量，思想，努力和资源是令人难以置信的。”
And indeed, as Holmes notes shrewdly, “From being a 25-year-old woman to now, the Queen has never once been deemed inappropriate in what she’s wearing. She makes it look easier than it really is but the amount of work, thought, effort and resources it takes to never miss in 70 years is incredible.”
资料来源 Daisy Woodward
翻译 Mbl
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